- DIG a shallow, broad planting hole. Holes should be 2–3 times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball.
- REMOVE WRAPPING from around the root ball and as much of the wire basket as possible to facilitate root growth. Inspect tree root ball for circling roots and straighten, cut, or remove them.
- Ensure the trunk flare is partially visible when the tree is planted. The flare is where the trunk expands at the base of the tree. Remove excess soil from the root ball prior to planting if flare is not visible.
- POSITION the tree at the proper height with the trunk flare visible. Try to lift by the root ball, not the trunk. Planting too deep will be detrimental because most of the roots develop in the top 12” of soil.
- STRAIGHTEN the tree so it will look best from the angle it is viewed most. Before filling the hole, examine the tree from several angles to confirm it is straight.
- PACK SOIL around the base of the root ball gently but firmly to stabilize it and eliminate air pockets. Fill the hole with quality soil wet to a muddy consistency. Further reduce air pockets by watering periodically while backfilling. Avoid fertilizing at the time of planting.
- If STAKING is necessary, three stakes provide optimum support. Trees develop stronger trunks and roots if they are not staked, however it may be required. Always remove stakes after the first year of growth.
- MULCH the base of the tree. Place a 2–3” layer of mulch but be sure to leave a mulch-free area of 1–2” at the base of the tree to reduce moist bark and prevent decay.
- WATER once a day for the first week to keep the soil moist and then at least once a week or more frequently during hot, windy weather. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off as temperatures lower.
- PRUNING of branches damaged during the planting process may be required but do so sparingly after planting. Delay corrective pruning until a full season of growth.